Wagashi: history and sustainability of Japanese sweets

Wagashi, the traditional Japanese sweets, are deeply interwoven with Japanese culture. They are typically enjoyed with green tea during the tea ceremony, reflecting a perfect balance between the sweets’ delicate flavours and the tea’s natural bitterness.

There is an incredible variety of wagashi available in Japan. They are broadly classified by moisture content, including Namagashi (with over 30% moisture), Han-namagashi (with 10–30% moisture), and Higashi (dry sweets with less than 10% moisture).

Within these categories, wagashi range from simple treats to beautifully designed masterpieces. In total, hundreds of regional and seasonal variations exist, each crafted to reflect nature’s beauty and the changing seasons.

History of Wagashi

Wagashi have a long and storied history dating back to ancient Japan. Early Japanese confectionery began with offerings of fruits and nutsavailable locally. As trade with China increased during the Nara period (710–794), cultural exchanges introduced new techniques and ingredients.

However, Buddhism in Japan discouraged the use of meat, which Chinese confectionary included. The fillings were then adapted using plant-based ingredients. For instance, early versions of manjuu contained pork or mutton, but they were replaced with sweet red bean paste (anko). Red beans were symbols of good fortune. But sugar was not introduced into the making yet, so they were not sweet!

Wagashi truly flourished during the Edo period (1603–1868), when advances in sugar refining and increased agricultural productivity made sweet ingredients more accessible to the common people. This era saw the emergence of many classic varieties, as artisans refined techniques and began incorporating seasonal motifs into their creations.

When Japan ended its Closed Country Policy, western sweets began to be introduced into Japan. It was then the term wagashi (thus “Japanese” sweets) was coined to differentiate from sweets from other countries.

Making different types of wagashi

The diversity of wagashi is supported by the variety of anko and the skills of wagashi artisans, who use different types of anko to create subtle variations in texture and flavour: koshian, a smooth, sieved red bean paste; tsubuan, a chunkier paste where some bean texture remains; and shiroan, made from white beans and offering a milder flavour. Colouring was also possible but adding other food varieties.

Wagashi should be celebrated their sustainability too. Most wagashi are made entirely from plant-based ingredients , including such as rice, wheat, azuki beans, and natural sweeteners. (Note not all wagashi are vegan, so vegan and vegetarians will still want to be careful when buying wagashi souvenirs.)

Artisans often use seasonal produce and locally sourced ingredients. Remember also that resources were limited during the Edo Period, so wagashi artisans maximised the use of ingredients, even showing appreciation of nature’s changing seasons.

Also precisely of the limited resouces, innovation in techniques was born. Even though production remained in small scale, production was eco-friendly, and traditional methods were honed to be energy-efficient.

Well-known types of wagashi

Several varieties of wagashi have become symbols of Japan’s heritage:

Daifuku: A soft mochi filled with sweet red bean paste, often enjoyed year-round and popular for its chewy texture.

Dorayaki: Consisting of two small, fluffy pancakes sandwiching a generous layer of anko, dorayaki is beloved by all ages.

Sakuramochi: A seasonal treat typically enjoyed during cherry blossom viewing; it features a pink mochi wrapped in a salted cherry blossom leaf with a filling of anko.

Taiyaki: Fish-shaped cakes usually filled with anko, though modern variations may include custard or chocolate.

Yokan: A firm, jellied confection made with red bean paste, agar, and sugar, traditionally served in slices.

Wagashi continues to be beloved to this day because it is a living art form, with new efforts to push the tradition further, innovating for modern times. Whether it be the traditional wagashi or chic new sweets, we should remember that this cultural heritage holds mindful, sustainable practices, making it continuing to be relevant for the next few centuries to come.

[Reference] Denken (2024)
[Reference] Circular Edonomy: Japan’s successful Circular Economy 400 years ago