New Japanese dyeing technique Shinmanyo-zome for ethical and sustainable fashion

In Japan, various dye techniques developed during the Edo period, such as kusaki-zome, a natural dyeing technique that draws colors from plants, flowers and fruit. Back then, natural pigments were used for textile dyeing, which was eco-friendly and had a less negative impact on humans than chemically manufactured synthetic dyes. However, textile industries shifted to synthetic dyeing from around the Meiji period, since it was easier to handle and less costly.

A Japanese company, Kyoto Kawabata Shoten, started as a draper in 1924 but switched to the dyeing business in 1995. In the early years of its business, the company used chemical dyes to print textiles. However, after a period of operation, workers complained about health problems such as rough skin and headaches, presumably caused by the chemical smell at their workplace. The company came to know that chemical dyeing is easy and highly efficient but negatively impacts both humans and the environment.

Therefore, Kyoto Kawabata Shoten representative, Yasuo Kawabata, decided to shift to natural dyeing after having numerous discussions with the staff. And roughly 15 years ago, Kawabata began a collaboration with Mitsuo Kimura, a professor at Mie University, to develop a new natural dyeing technique called “Shinmanyo-zome.” This new dyeing method uses natural pigments such as plants and insects to dye textiles. It is environmental-friendly since it requires a shorter time and consumes smaller amounts of pigments than the conventional method. Furthermore, the dyeing process can be done at normal temperature, and can create attractive colors that cannot be manufactured with synthetic dyes. Also, the workplace environment improved dramatically: wastewater became environmentally friendly, and a pleasant scent of the natural ingredients began to fill the workplace.

Last fall, Kyoto Kawabata Shoten worked with a fashion school on a project to achieve two Sustainable Development Goals (SDGs): Goal 12 (Responsible consumption and production) and Goal 17 (Partnership for the Goals). Together, they collected organically grown marigolds damaged by a large typhoon that hit Osaka in 2019 and were scheduled for discard. The collected marigolds were dried and then used to make natural dyes, which the fashion students utilized to make various items. Kawabata says the project got the youths involved in ethical production and fashion. He expects the fashion industry to shift from the conventional kind to an ethical and sustainable industry. And the new natural dye technology, shinmanyo-zome, will provide young students a hint to strive for such ethical business models.

The famous Chinese philosopher, Confucius’s saying is noted in the Analects, “Study the past if you would define the future.” The significance of developing new ideas and technology by learning from the past is still true, even in our fast-moving modern society. In fact, as the world faces numerous issues that need immediate addressing, modern society needs to learn from past techniques and materials to achieve sustainable goods, services, and business models. Perhaps only by finding new values from our past wisdom can we change our problem-plagued society and realize sustainable development.