Goldfish-shaped pearls challenge beauty standards in jewelry

When it comes to pearls, perfection is the standard, mostly represented by a smooth, round shape. Ise-Shima region in Mie prefecture is known as the birthplace of Japanese pearl cultivation. The calm waters of the intricate coastline provide an ideal environment for high-quality Akoya oyster pearls.

However, it takes about three years on average for pearls to take form. Only 20% of these Akoya oysters produce perfect spherical gems. On top of that, the region has recently been facing the twin threats of marine pollution and rising ocean temperatures. These two factors have caused a decrease in the amount of plankton that the oysters feed on, which in turn reduces the likelihood of well-rounded gems emerging.

Hyakka: ocean-designed, charming pearls

Driven by this situation, Ise-city based jewelry brand Seven Three has been producing an innovative pearl jewelry collection called Hyakka, using imperfect pearls. Hyakka’s jewelry is designed with “Goldfish-shaped pearls” that come with an irregular protrusion, which resembles the wavy tail of the charming pet fish. While some imperfect pearls with dented or uneven surfaces are sold on the market as “Baroque pearls,” these oddly-formed Goldfish pearls are usually deemed unsuitable for the existing market.

Whether perfectly rounded or unusually shaped, all the pearls that are grown in Ise-Shima are natural representations of the region’s beauty and the hard work of its pearl farmers. With this idea in mind, Seven Three decided to repurpose these imperfect pearls with the Goldfish branding idea. The brand purposefully keeps the natural colors of these cultured pearls such as blue, gray and gold. These one-of-a-kind accessories provide a playful yet luxurious option for consumers.

The sustainable jewelry selected as a Mie Good Design product

Embracing the natural beauty of Goldfish pearls could foster sustainability in the pearl industry, where imperfections could grow to be seen as selling points instead of drawbacks. Moreover, as stated in Goal 14 of the SDGs (“Conserve and sustainably use the oceans, seas and marine resources for sustainable development”), adequately-managed cultivated pearl farming would help improve coastal livelihoods and marine conservation. Hyakka was designated as a Mie Good Design Product this year. The judges praised Hyakka for its unprecedented re-branding idea and eco-friendly approach toward the local industry and marine system.

With the simple act of giving imperfection a new name, Seven Three is giving a second chance to these charming, oddly-shaped marine pearls.